Miracle solution or reckless, peeling is a cosmetic solution for restoring radiant skin. What does this treatment actually involve? What are the risks? Is it suitable for dark skin? Kanu Skincare tells you everything you need to know about peeling.
What is peeling?
Peeling is a dermatological procedure that involves applying an acidic chemical solution to the skin to exfoliate the top layer of the epidermis in order to improve texture, tone and brightness, reducing imperfections such as wrinkles, pigment spots , acne, enlarged pores or scars. This skin exfoliation can be performed on the face, neck or even hands.
This chemical solution may contain various acids , enzymes or other active substances that work by breaking down dead skin cells and stimulating cell renewal . There are different types of peels, depending on the concentration of active ingredients : it can be superficial, medium or deep.
The different types of peels
Superficial peeling uses mild chemical solutions, such as glycolic acid , phytic acid, or salicylic acid, to lightly exfoliate the outer layer of skin.
Medium peels use more concentrated chemical solutions, such as trichloroacetic acid (TCA) , to penetrate deeper into the skin to treat issues such as acne scars and remove dead skin cells.
Deep peels are the most intense and use highly concentrated chemical solutions or lasers to penetrate deep into the skin and remove layers of damaged cells. This type of peel is rarer because it is considered a medical procedure performed under local or general anesthesia .
Peeling is a medical procedure generally performed by experienced dermatologists or cosmetic doctors.
What are the risks of peeling on black skin?
Cosmetic peels, while they can offer “new skin,” are not without risks. For black, dark, and mixed-race skin, these risks can be even more pronounced.
Indeed, black skin is rich in melanin , a pigment naturally present in cells. This melanin plays an important role in protecting the skin against the sun's UV rays which can have harmful effects (skin aging, pigment spots, etc.).
Although medical technology has evolved in recent years, peeling is still strongly discouraged for black skin. This is because the cosmetic procedure can burn the skin, and instead of removing pigmentation spots, peeling can leave scars, hyperpigmentation , depigmentation, or even acne.
However, if you still want to get a new look, it's imperative to go to a professional. Skin with high melanin content can perform a superficial or even medium peel to stimulate cellular regeneration in the skin's surface layer and achieve a more even complexion. They are performed at a very low dosage on dark skin, and several sessions are necessary to achieve results. A restorative cream is prescribed, and sun exposure is prohibited.
What are the alternatives to peeling?
A regular routine with a skin exfoliator can be a good alternative to a peel. Depending on your skin type, you can exfoliate your face once or twice a week with a non-abrasive product, especially for sensitive skin.
We avoid grain scrubs which risk creating micro-lesions on the skin.
It is possible to buy enzymatic or acid peels in supermarkets or pharmacies.
Enzymatic exfoliation is composed, as its name suggests, of enzymes, active molecules that react upon contact with the skin and gently remove dead cells. It is ideal for sensitive skin.
It is possible to use AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acids) peels which are fruit acids, known for their controlled peeling action.
Finally, remember to adopt a good routine with moisturizing and gentle skincare products that respect your skin. Discover the Kanu Skincare Essential Kit for radiant and glowing skin.
